Garden Articles
April Presentation: Small Garden Design
25/04/12 05:59 PM
by member Karen Sciuk
April’s speaker, Frank Kershaw, an award winning horticulturalist with more than thirty-five years experience in the parks, environmental and horticultural fields, talked about design elements and techniques used to make a small garden seem larger and more dramatic.
Most modern, urban garden spaces need to be carefully designed with a smaller scale in mind. Mistakes are more obvious due to the emphasis on an inward focus. The spaces are often very intimate, enclosed by hedges, a trellis, an arbour. Vertical gardening becomes very important. Consider espaliered trees.
Terraced decks and patios create depth. There is usually room for a limited number of functions compared to larger, rural garden retreats. Creating a seamless transition from the home into the garden can give the impression of a larger space.
Similarly, co-ordinating the design from the front, along the sides, into the back creates continuity. Sinuous borders lead the eye along a more expansive journey. Clever use of reflecting pools, contrasting “proceeding” and “receding” colours, such as rich reds and yellows against cool blues and dark greens also tricks the eye. Forced perspective, an architectural trick, adds distance and expands the view.
Just because a yard is small, the plants do not need to all stay small. A few bold accents add grandeur and a lasting impression. Not only interesting plant specimens, but items such as mirrors, rustic urns, whimsical statuary, or wall fountains are good punctuation points. Finally, never forget to look out the window when designing the garden views.
For more on Frank Kershaw's delightful ideas, take a look at his chapter inside the new book Gardening from a Hammock, which is a compilation of advice given from many of our well-loved gardening gurus.
gardeningfromahammock.com
Most modern, urban garden spaces need to be carefully designed with a smaller scale in mind. Mistakes are more obvious due to the emphasis on an inward focus. The spaces are often very intimate, enclosed by hedges, a trellis, an arbour. Vertical gardening becomes very important. Consider espaliered trees.
Terraced decks and patios create depth. There is usually room for a limited number of functions compared to larger, rural garden retreats. Creating a seamless transition from the home into the garden can give the impression of a larger space.
Similarly, co-ordinating the design from the front, along the sides, into the back creates continuity. Sinuous borders lead the eye along a more expansive journey. Clever use of reflecting pools, contrasting “proceeding” and “receding” colours, such as rich reds and yellows against cool blues and dark greens also tricks the eye. Forced perspective, an architectural trick, adds distance and expands the view.
Just because a yard is small, the plants do not need to all stay small. A few bold accents add grandeur and a lasting impression. Not only interesting plant specimens, but items such as mirrors, rustic urns, whimsical statuary, or wall fountains are good punctuation points. Finally, never forget to look out the window when designing the garden views.
For more on Frank Kershaw's delightful ideas, take a look at his chapter inside the new book Gardening from a Hammock, which is a compilation of advice given from many of our well-loved gardening gurus.
gardeningfromahammock.com
10 Neat Things About Willows and Poplars
21/04/12 08:42 AM
from localgardener.net
Willows (Salix spp.) and poplars (Populus spp.) are cousins, both belonging to the genus salicaceae. They both populate wide swathes of the temperate zones and extend all the way to the subtropical. You will find them growing naturally all over North America and throughout the Russian federation, covering some 70 million hectares on earth, and an estimated 70 countries grow them domestically in mixtures with other naturally occurring forest species. read more
Willows (Salix spp.) and poplars (Populus spp.) are cousins, both belonging to the genus salicaceae. They both populate wide swathes of the temperate zones and extend all the way to the subtropical. You will find them growing naturally all over North America and throughout the Russian federation, covering some 70 million hectares on earth, and an estimated 70 countries grow them domestically in mixtures with other naturally occurring forest species. read more
March Presentation: "The Evolution of Whistling Gardens"
31/03/12 10:55 AM
from member Karen
Darren Heimbecker, the creator of Whistling Gardens, in Wilsonville, Norfolk County, Ontario, took us on a journey of the evolution of his property. It has changed over the past five years, from empty fields to six major gardens, containing one of the largest conifer collections in the world, with over 2,000 different species.
It was interesting to learn of his search for conifer “brooms” in his pursuit of developing unusual new dwarf cultivars. Besides evergreens, Darren grows a few hundred native and rare Carolinian trees, a few thousand perennials, and twenty-five varieties of Chinese dogwood. Some specimens to look for are Chinese Silver Leafed Cathaya, Bald Cyprus, Varigated Japanese Incense Cedar, Gotelli Creeping Blue Spruce, Japanese Snow Pine, Limeglow Spreading Juniper, Blue Spanish Fir, Variegated Cornelian Cherry, Hana Matoi Cutleaf Japanese Maple, Paperbark Maple, Summer Fun Chinese Dogwood. We witnessed the history of his labour, building stone walls and patios, intricate gazebos, a stone bridge, terraces. His vision and energy seem limitless!
Be sure to visit this intriguing place either on your own, or with the club's upcoming bus tour in June (see club calendar).
It was interesting to learn of his search for conifer “brooms” in his pursuit of developing unusual new dwarf cultivars. Besides evergreens, Darren grows a few hundred native and rare Carolinian trees, a few thousand perennials, and twenty-five varieties of Chinese dogwood. Some specimens to look for are Chinese Silver Leafed Cathaya, Bald Cyprus, Varigated Japanese Incense Cedar, Gotelli Creeping Blue Spruce, Japanese Snow Pine, Limeglow Spreading Juniper, Blue Spanish Fir, Variegated Cornelian Cherry, Hana Matoi Cutleaf Japanese Maple, Paperbark Maple, Summer Fun Chinese Dogwood. We witnessed the history of his labour, building stone walls and patios, intricate gazebos, a stone bridge, terraces. His vision and energy seem limitless!
Be sure to visit this intriguing place either on your own, or with the club's upcoming bus tour in June (see club calendar).
How To: Create an Alpine Garden
13/03/12 11:46 PM
from member Tracey Smyth
Have you ever thought about creating an alpine garden?
Rock gardens are the perfect choice for these ecologically friendly times. With good site preparation and the right plant choices, they require very little maintenance and watering.
Siting should be in an area that receives at least 4 to 6 hours of sun daily with excellent drainage. If your site already has a slope that makes the job easier, but you can create your own slope(s) with rock and gravel. If the location consists of clay soil that retains moisture, you can amend your site by laying down about 3 inches of the type of gravel normally used for installing weeping tiles over the clay. Alpines just hate soggy feet. By laying gravel and raising the bed above ground level you can ensure good drainage, a very important requirement of the rock garden.
At this point you should be thinking about contouring the grades you wish to enhance and laying the rocks in pleasing patterns. Give yourself plenty of time for this, as the stones will probably be moved several times before you’re happy with the final arrangement. Placement of the rocks is probably the most important thing after the soil. The garden should be pleasing to the eye even before the plants go in. Good bones make beautiful gardens! You want to mimic the style of hills and mountains, which can be achieved by making sure the rocks’ grains run in the same direction. You can choose to create a series of terraces or a series of hills that would look like a small mountain range. The scale of the desired plants should be comparable to the scale of the rocks used. The rocks should be well sunk in the ground and should have the finished appearance of a natural outcrop. Laying the first rock in the excavation is one of the most important parts of the process. This is the keystone and should be laid at the bottom of the slope. Whatever angle this piece is laid at should be the angle that all the other pieces follow. If you study pictures of different rock features, this will give you a better idea of how to form your rocks.
The next step is putting down a mix of 30% soil to 70% stone, followed by a final layer of 100% stone The stone and soil layer should be a good mix of equal parts soil, gravel (screening) and peat. The ideal growing medium for alpine plants is ph7 +/- 1. This can be composed of a natural screening material or pea gravel, depending on your preference. Be careful not to use all limestone screening; as much as alpines like acidic beds, too much acidity can be just as bad as too little. A mixture of natural and limestone screening can be purchased quite inexpensively at Hardco located on Thickson Road north of Taunton Road.
The suitability of any plant in the rock garden is dictated by the size of the rocks. The larger the rock, then the larger the plant may be to achieve a visual balance. Smaller rocks should be used with smaller plants. The rocks should look like they are growing from the earth and be firmly embedded. Once the first level or contour is done, in fill with the soil mixture. The infill must be firmly packed under, behind and in between each piece of rock. This is necessary to prevent spaces for the frost to penetrate. What you want to avoid is areas where the roots will find stone and no soil, and thus become exposed to cold air.
After a few months when the area has settled, it won’t hurt to top up the planting areas with another layer of soil mixture/compost. If you have chosen a peagravel or screening as your top layer, the soil mixture can be washed in with a hose sprayer set on the fine or mist setting.
Now you can relax and enjoy your beautiful new rock garden!
Plant choices for alpine gardens:
Sedums, Hens and Chicks, Dianthus, Japanese Blood grass. Lavender, Thyme, Oregano, Crocus, Blue Fescue grass, Creeping Juniper, Veronica, Snow in summer, Winter Aconite, Creeping Phlox, Delosperma, Primula, Oxalis, Saxifrage, Yellow Gentian, Valerian, Yucca, Pasque Flower and Lewisia.
Sources of Alpine plants:
Mason Hogue Gardens – Uxbridge – 905 649 3532
Marion Jarvie Rare Plants – Thornhill – open garden and plant sales – one of the largest collections of Saxifrage in North America
Wrightman Alpines – Kerwood, Ontario – also available by mail order
Country Squires Garden – Campbellville
Cavendish Perennials – Burlington
Websites for reference:
landscapeontario.com
onrockgarden.com
rcgardens.ca
thealpinegarden.com
Reference and Souces:
LandscapeOntario.com
The Rock Garden by Alan Grainger
rcgardens.ca
Have you ever thought about creating an alpine garden?
Rock gardens are the perfect choice for these ecologically friendly times. With good site preparation and the right plant choices, they require very little maintenance and watering.
Siting should be in an area that receives at least 4 to 6 hours of sun daily with excellent drainage. If your site already has a slope that makes the job easier, but you can create your own slope(s) with rock and gravel. If the location consists of clay soil that retains moisture, you can amend your site by laying down about 3 inches of the type of gravel normally used for installing weeping tiles over the clay. Alpines just hate soggy feet. By laying gravel and raising the bed above ground level you can ensure good drainage, a very important requirement of the rock garden.
At this point you should be thinking about contouring the grades you wish to enhance and laying the rocks in pleasing patterns. Give yourself plenty of time for this, as the stones will probably be moved several times before you’re happy with the final arrangement. Placement of the rocks is probably the most important thing after the soil. The garden should be pleasing to the eye even before the plants go in. Good bones make beautiful gardens! You want to mimic the style of hills and mountains, which can be achieved by making sure the rocks’ grains run in the same direction. You can choose to create a series of terraces or a series of hills that would look like a small mountain range. The scale of the desired plants should be comparable to the scale of the rocks used. The rocks should be well sunk in the ground and should have the finished appearance of a natural outcrop. Laying the first rock in the excavation is one of the most important parts of the process. This is the keystone and should be laid at the bottom of the slope. Whatever angle this piece is laid at should be the angle that all the other pieces follow. If you study pictures of different rock features, this will give you a better idea of how to form your rocks.
The next step is putting down a mix of 30% soil to 70% stone, followed by a final layer of 100% stone The stone and soil layer should be a good mix of equal parts soil, gravel (screening) and peat. The ideal growing medium for alpine plants is ph7 +/- 1. This can be composed of a natural screening material or pea gravel, depending on your preference. Be careful not to use all limestone screening; as much as alpines like acidic beds, too much acidity can be just as bad as too little. A mixture of natural and limestone screening can be purchased quite inexpensively at Hardco located on Thickson Road north of Taunton Road.
After a few months when the area has settled, it won’t hurt to top up the planting areas with another layer of soil mixture/compost. If you have chosen a peagravel or screening as your top layer, the soil mixture can be washed in with a hose sprayer set on the fine or mist setting.
Now you can relax and enjoy your beautiful new rock garden!
Plant choices for alpine gardens:
Sedums, Hens and Chicks, Dianthus, Japanese Blood grass. Lavender, Thyme, Oregano, Crocus, Blue Fescue grass, Creeping Juniper, Veronica, Snow in summer, Winter Aconite, Creeping Phlox, Delosperma, Primula, Oxalis, Saxifrage, Yellow Gentian, Valerian, Yucca, Pasque Flower and Lewisia.
Sources of Alpine plants:
Mason Hogue Gardens – Uxbridge – 905 649 3532
Marion Jarvie Rare Plants – Thornhill – open garden and plant sales – one of the largest collections of Saxifrage in North America
Wrightman Alpines – Kerwood, Ontario – also available by mail order
Country Squires Garden – Campbellville
Cavendish Perennials – Burlington
Websites for reference:
landscapeontario.com
onrockgarden.com
rcgardens.ca
thealpinegarden.com
Reference and Souces:
LandscapeOntario.com
The Rock Garden by Alan Grainger
rcgardens.ca
February Presentation: Cathy Kozma and “The Importance of Bee-ing”
12/03/12 08:51 PM
by member Karen Sciuk
Cathy Kozma, pictured left, both a Master Gardener from the Toronto group, and a member of the Toronto Beekeepers Co-operative, educated us about bees as pollinators, in-particular Apis mellifera, the Honey Bee, originally from Africa and Europe, and not native to North America.
We learned that unlike self-pollinating plants, 90 % of cross-pollinating plants need assistance from other organisms. Only 10 % have pollen that is small and light enough to be carried by the wind, the rest have symbiotic relationships with pollinators such as butterflies, birds, bats, hover flies, wasps, and the many types of bees, that transfer the larger pollen grains from plant to plant. Of the approximately 17,700 known species of bees worldwide, 900 reside in Canada, and about 250 can be found in the GTA. Some common types such as Bumblebees, Leaf Cutter bees, and Mason bees, are among the 90 % that do not make honey. The majority of bees do not even reside in hives like the Honey bee, that has made them an ideal candidate for beekeeping, since 2400 B.C. in Egypt. Honey, still edible, due to it's antbacterial properties, has been found in the toombs of Pharohs!
Cathy stressed that over 100 food crops need direct contact with bees in order to be produced. Without them we would need to resort to hand-pollinating each flower, like in the production of apples and pears in the Hunan province, China or other Himalayan regions. She emphasized that we gardeners should help the local bees by advocating for their co-existence in our living spaces, support the local beekeeper organizations by buying local honey, and in particular create bee friendly gardens.
Gardens that attract a diversity of bees have a diversity of plants, with a succession of blooms, rich in both nectar and pollen, that are scented, and predominantly blue, purple, white, or yellow. It is important to have a constant source of water, with some less manicured areas and some bare soil. It was interesting to discover that the much talked about 'Colony Collapse Disorder' plaguing the United States has not reached Canada, although we may witness some diminished populations as a result of habitat loss, too many monoculture crops, improper timing of pesticide application, other environmental stresses and viral disease. However, the potential spread of the Varroa destructor mite has been limited by the tight control of queen bee transport across the border.
For more information about bees in Toronto, or the managed hives of the Royal York Hotel, the Toronto Botanical Gardens, the Evergreen Brickworks , and others, visit: http://www.torontobees.ca/
We learned that unlike self-pollinating plants, 90 % of cross-pollinating plants need assistance from other organisms. Only 10 % have pollen that is small and light enough to be carried by the wind, the rest have symbiotic relationships with pollinators such as butterflies, birds, bats, hover flies, wasps, and the many types of bees, that transfer the larger pollen grains from plant to plant. Of the approximately 17,700 known species of bees worldwide, 900 reside in Canada, and about 250 can be found in the GTA. Some common types such as Bumblebees, Leaf Cutter bees, and Mason bees, are among the 90 % that do not make honey. The majority of bees do not even reside in hives like the Honey bee, that has made them an ideal candidate for beekeeping, since 2400 B.C. in Egypt. Honey, still edible, due to it's antbacterial properties, has been found in the toombs of Pharohs!
Cathy stressed that over 100 food crops need direct contact with bees in order to be produced. Without them we would need to resort to hand-pollinating each flower, like in the production of apples and pears in the Hunan province, China or other Himalayan regions. She emphasized that we gardeners should help the local bees by advocating for their co-existence in our living spaces, support the local beekeeper organizations by buying local honey, and in particular create bee friendly gardens.
Gardens that attract a diversity of bees have a diversity of plants, with a succession of blooms, rich in both nectar and pollen, that are scented, and predominantly blue, purple, white, or yellow. It is important to have a constant source of water, with some less manicured areas and some bare soil. It was interesting to discover that the much talked about 'Colony Collapse Disorder' plaguing the United States has not reached Canada, although we may witness some diminished populations as a result of habitat loss, too many monoculture crops, improper timing of pesticide application, other environmental stresses and viral disease. However, the potential spread of the Varroa destructor mite has been limited by the tight control of queen bee transport across the border.
For more information about bees in Toronto, or the managed hives of the Royal York Hotel, the Toronto Botanical Gardens, the Evergreen Brickworks , and others, visit: http://www.torontobees.ca/
January Presentation: Tips for Growing Winning Roses Organically from A to Z
14/02/12 09:03 PM
by member Karen Sciuk
Shari-Lyn Safir introduced us to a colourful array of her favourite roses, encouraging us to try some here in zone 5, as they also survive further north in her zone 2b Thunder Bay gardens. Instead of buying potted roses whose roots will have been pruned to fit the pots, she advised us to find bare root plants grafted onto hardy multi-flora root stocks for 30-50% of the price.
To plant, dig a hole 3 ft. deep by 3 ft. wide if possible, to enable the roots to be spread out over a mound of black earth. The graft union should be 6 in. below the final soil surface to protect the grafted portion from the freeze-thaw cycles of our winters. Back fill the hole in one-third increments with a 1:1:1 mixture of black earth, manure ( e.g. sheep ), and well-aged garden compost ( not mushroom ). Water well each time, tamping down to remove air pockets. Throw in 3 banana peels for a dose of potassium, tea and coffee grounds to boost the acidity, and garlic bulbets to deter aphids. For the first 2 weeks pile black earth above the canes to encourage root growth over vegetative growth, followed by slow and careful removal.
When the forsythias are in bloom it's time to prune out dead, diseased, and damaged wood, as well as any canes smaller in diameter than a pencil. Open up the interior to ensure good air circulation leaving 3-5 canes in an open vase or bowl shape. Hybrid Teas can be pruned back by half every year, and down to 6 in. if producing show blooms. Grandifloras, Floribundas, Austins should be left alone for 3-4 years, and reduced by a third in subsequent years. Let ramblers ramble, and climbers climb! However more climbing canes will be produced if the original canes are bent or wound horizontally on their supports. Dead head frequently until mid October.
Transplanting is best done in the early spring of March/ April, keeping as much of the root ball intact as possible.
Alfalfa pellets or cubes are a great rose fertilizer. Use 3-4 per bush covered in manure, or soak to make alfalfa tea, starting at the end of April and ending by August the 1st. Epsom salts sprinkled once per month help green up the leaves, and ease the basal breaks of suckers. If showing, time the application for one week before the show, and prune stems to a 5-leaf leaflet.
Roses thrive on neglect so water infrequently i.e. a 3-5 gallon soak once per week is sufficient, and encourages deep roots. To avoid Black Spot be sure NOT to water overhead or at night. Recipe for Rust and Blackspot 1 gallon or 4.5L of water 1 tbsp baking soda 1 tbsp vegetable oil 1 squirt of mild dish soap Spray once every five days wherever you see evidence of disease.
To discourage pests and attract predators such as lacewings plant dill, parsley, fennel, wild carrot nearby. Aphids and sawflies can be handpicked, but if you're squeamish the following recipe works well. Recipe for Aphids: 1 gallon or 4.5L of water 7-8 crushed garlic cloves Place crushed garlic in water and let stand for 24 hours. Strain the mixture and spray where you see aphids. (Squishing them with your fingers is also an effective option)
For winter protection, mound pure black earth over the canes once the ground has frozen, and cover the earth with shredded autumn leaves away from the protruding canes. To prevent the leaves from being blown away cover the entire mound with composted manure. Once spring arrives worms will get to work mixing the leaves, manure, and black earth, and the mound will be reduced without having to remove it.
For more information visit the Canadian Rose Society: www.canadianrosesociety.org
Shari-Lyn Safir introduced us to a colourful array of her favourite roses, encouraging us to try some here in zone 5, as they also survive further north in her zone 2b Thunder Bay gardens. Instead of buying potted roses whose roots will have been pruned to fit the pots, she advised us to find bare root plants grafted onto hardy multi-flora root stocks for 30-50% of the price.
To plant, dig a hole 3 ft. deep by 3 ft. wide if possible, to enable the roots to be spread out over a mound of black earth. The graft union should be 6 in. below the final soil surface to protect the grafted portion from the freeze-thaw cycles of our winters. Back fill the hole in one-third increments with a 1:1:1 mixture of black earth, manure ( e.g. sheep ), and well-aged garden compost ( not mushroom ). Water well each time, tamping down to remove air pockets. Throw in 3 banana peels for a dose of potassium, tea and coffee grounds to boost the acidity, and garlic bulbets to deter aphids. For the first 2 weeks pile black earth above the canes to encourage root growth over vegetative growth, followed by slow and careful removal.
When the forsythias are in bloom it's time to prune out dead, diseased, and damaged wood, as well as any canes smaller in diameter than a pencil. Open up the interior to ensure good air circulation leaving 3-5 canes in an open vase or bowl shape. Hybrid Teas can be pruned back by half every year, and down to 6 in. if producing show blooms. Grandifloras, Floribundas, Austins should be left alone for 3-4 years, and reduced by a third in subsequent years. Let ramblers ramble, and climbers climb! However more climbing canes will be produced if the original canes are bent or wound horizontally on their supports. Dead head frequently until mid October.
Transplanting is best done in the early spring of March/ April, keeping as much of the root ball intact as possible.
Alfalfa pellets or cubes are a great rose fertilizer. Use 3-4 per bush covered in manure, or soak to make alfalfa tea, starting at the end of April and ending by August the 1st. Epsom salts sprinkled once per month help green up the leaves, and ease the basal breaks of suckers. If showing, time the application for one week before the show, and prune stems to a 5-leaf leaflet.
Roses thrive on neglect so water infrequently i.e. a 3-5 gallon soak once per week is sufficient, and encourages deep roots. To avoid Black Spot be sure NOT to water overhead or at night. Recipe for Rust and Blackspot 1 gallon or 4.5L of water 1 tbsp baking soda 1 tbsp vegetable oil 1 squirt of mild dish soap Spray once every five days wherever you see evidence of disease.
To discourage pests and attract predators such as lacewings plant dill, parsley, fennel, wild carrot nearby. Aphids and sawflies can be handpicked, but if you're squeamish the following recipe works well. Recipe for Aphids: 1 gallon or 4.5L of water 7-8 crushed garlic cloves Place crushed garlic in water and let stand for 24 hours. Strain the mixture and spray where you see aphids. (Squishing them with your fingers is also an effective option)
For winter protection, mound pure black earth over the canes once the ground has frozen, and cover the earth with shredded autumn leaves away from the protruding canes. To prevent the leaves from being blown away cover the entire mound with composted manure. Once spring arrives worms will get to work mixing the leaves, manure, and black earth, and the mound will be reduced without having to remove it.
For more information visit the Canadian Rose Society: www.canadianrosesociety.org
Control Method for Emerald Ash Borer Discovered
01/01/12 05:24 PM
by Laurie Saulnier, Natural Resources Canada - Communications and Marketing Branch
A tiny green insect is wreaking havoc on ash trees across Canada and the United States. The emerald ash borer has killed millions of ash trees since it was first detected in North America in 2002.
Native to Asia, the emerald ash borer was likely transported to North America in woody material used in shipping containers. Its spread has been facilitated by the movement of firewood and planting stock. To date, the emerald ash borer has been identified in at least 13 U.S. states and two Canadian provinces.
Control options are limited for this insect, and forest managers have adopted a management strategy to slow its spread through tree removal, restrictions on the movement of materials from infested areas, and by injecting certain trees with an insecticide.
To help further stem the spread of the pest, researchers at the Canadian Forest Service (CFS) have turned to pheromones as a safer, more effective alternative. Pheromones are natural compounds or chemical signals that species use to communicate with members of the same species.
By identifying and synthesizing an insect pheromone in the lab, it can then be used to disrupt the insect’s mating cycle or lure it into traps. In this way, insect populations can be reduced. Since pheromones naturally occur and are species-specific, they are safe and natural pest control mechanisms that pose no danger to humans and other animals.
Unlocking a chemical mystery
In a paper published in August 2011 in Environmental Entomology, researchers Dr. Peter Silk and Dr. Krista Ryall provide the first evidence of a sex pheromone in the female emerald ash borer that attracts the male.
They found that when the pheromone is placed in green traps with a green leaf volatile (the chemical a tree emits when stressed) the trap catch of the male emerald ash borer increased by at least 50%, and in some cases up to 100%. By discovering and synthesizing this pheromone, the researchers believe they have uncovered a way to improve detection methods and management tools for the insect.
Pheromone research a complex problem
Peter emphasizes the complexity of pheromone research. “We first have to identify the insect pheromone which is not easy considering each insect species has unique pheromones. And then, to synthesize it, we have to break it down chemically which presents its own challenges because a million millionth of a gram is difficult to detect.”
“This pheromone is the icing on the cake of a large body of emerald ash borer research,” says Peter. “By bringing together all of the research done to date by CFS across the country and other organizations, we are able to test the pheromone in the field under optimal conditions to get maximum trap catch. The results are very positive.”
For more information on the insects and diseases in Canada's forests, visit NRCan’s Insects and Diseases.
Native to Asia, the emerald ash borer was likely transported to North America in woody material used in shipping containers. Its spread has been facilitated by the movement of firewood and planting stock. To date, the emerald ash borer has been identified in at least 13 U.S. states and two Canadian provinces.
Control options are limited for this insect, and forest managers have adopted a management strategy to slow its spread through tree removal, restrictions on the movement of materials from infested areas, and by injecting certain trees with an insecticide.
To help further stem the spread of the pest, researchers at the Canadian Forest Service (CFS) have turned to pheromones as a safer, more effective alternative. Pheromones are natural compounds or chemical signals that species use to communicate with members of the same species.
By identifying and synthesizing an insect pheromone in the lab, it can then be used to disrupt the insect’s mating cycle or lure it into traps. In this way, insect populations can be reduced. Since pheromones naturally occur and are species-specific, they are safe and natural pest control mechanisms that pose no danger to humans and other animals.
Unlocking a chemical mystery
In a paper published in August 2011 in Environmental Entomology, researchers Dr. Peter Silk and Dr. Krista Ryall provide the first evidence of a sex pheromone in the female emerald ash borer that attracts the male.
They found that when the pheromone is placed in green traps with a green leaf volatile (the chemical a tree emits when stressed) the trap catch of the male emerald ash borer increased by at least 50%, and in some cases up to 100%. By discovering and synthesizing this pheromone, the researchers believe they have uncovered a way to improve detection methods and management tools for the insect.
Pheromone research a complex problem
Peter emphasizes the complexity of pheromone research. “We first have to identify the insect pheromone which is not easy considering each insect species has unique pheromones. And then, to synthesize it, we have to break it down chemically which presents its own challenges because a million millionth of a gram is difficult to detect.”
“This pheromone is the icing on the cake of a large body of emerald ash borer research,” says Peter. “By bringing together all of the research done to date by CFS across the country and other organizations, we are able to test the pheromone in the field under optimal conditions to get maximum trap catch. The results are very positive.”
For more information on the insects and diseases in Canada's forests, visit NRCan’s Insects and Diseases.
Agastaches
01/01/12 05:18 PM
by fellow gardener, Ted Brown
Fellow Garden Club Members, I have my favourite plants, but find it a difficult task to narrow my choice down to just one plant or genus of plants. That said, if I must, I choose agastaches, pronounced (ah-gas-TAH-kee), or hyssops, for those who prefer common names rather than botanical terms.
Now, while I love the entire family of plants, I’m especially proud of and in love with one particular hyssop that is the result of a naturally selective cross between agastache cana and agastache scrophular-iifolia. I grew both of those from seed and now I’ve got lots of crosses happening. Surprisingly, both of those are 3’ x 3’ plants and yet my cross had soared to 7’ x 7’. Actually, the mother plant has been a show stopper for several years until it started to deteriorate badly and I was forced to take a couple of divisions which are doing well whereas the mother is no more, may she rest in peace. The photo above shows the original and the newbies.
Now, while I love the entire family of plants, I’m especially proud of and in love with one particular hyssop that is the result of a naturally selective cross between agastache cana and agastache scrophular-iifolia. I grew both of those from seed and now I’ve got lots of crosses happening. Surprisingly, both of those are 3’ x 3’ plants and yet my cross had soared to 7’ x 7’. Actually, the mother plant has been a show stopper for several years until it started to deteriorate badly and I was forced to take a couple of divisions which are doing well whereas the mother is no more, may she rest in peace. The photo above shows the original and the newbies.
As for why I love her, check out the photo of the mother plant and try to count the monarchs. This plant routinely has 50 to 100 butterflies on it so, as you approach, you become engulfed in a cloud of these beautiful creatures. And hummers, they go berserk on this hyssop. Add to that the fact that this is a xeric plant, meaning that you would rarely need to water, and it blooms all summer and it absolutely is a winner in my book.
Pooktre Tree Shapers
01/01/12 04:46 PM
more information
November Presentation: Alliums
14/11/11 10:59 PM
November 14, 2011
from member Karen Sciuk
Mary Hinton and Susan Shepherd, two of our Durham Master Gardeners, discussed many interesting facts about both edible and ornamental alliums.
This diverse genus that includes garlic ( A. sativum ), chives ( A. schoenoprasum ), onions ( A. cepa ) and leeks ( A. ampeloprasum ), as well as those grown just for their striking globe-like flowers ( A. caeruleum, A. hollandicum, etc.), are all ultimately edible. Although we tend to think of them planted in the rows of a vegetable garden, or in punctuating clumps of a formal perennial border ( A. sphaerocephalon, A. giganteum x A. stipitatum), they also lend themselves well to the drifts of a naturalized garden ( A. moly, A. zebdaneanse ) or the rock garden ( A. cernuum), even in containers ( A. karataviense ) or a Japanese garden ( A. senescens spp. glaucum).
They are low maintenance, despite needing regular watering and the reduced competition of a weed free area, due to their disease and pest resistance. An added bonus is their resistance to deer, and their attractiveness to bees and butterflies. They even make lovely cut and dried flowers ( A. christophii, A. caeruleum ).
from member Karen Sciuk
Mary Hinton and Susan Shepherd, two of our Durham Master Gardeners, discussed many interesting facts about both edible and ornamental alliums.
This diverse genus that includes garlic ( A. sativum ), chives ( A. schoenoprasum ), onions ( A. cepa ) and leeks ( A. ampeloprasum ), as well as those grown just for their striking globe-like flowers ( A. caeruleum, A. hollandicum, etc.), are all ultimately edible. Although we tend to think of them planted in the rows of a vegetable garden, or in punctuating clumps of a formal perennial border ( A. sphaerocephalon, A. giganteum x A. stipitatum), they also lend themselves well to the drifts of a naturalized garden ( A. moly, A. zebdaneanse ) or the rock garden ( A. cernuum), even in containers ( A. karataviense ) or a Japanese garden ( A. senescens spp. glaucum).
They are low maintenance, despite needing regular watering and the reduced competition of a weed free area, due to their disease and pest resistance. An added bonus is their resistance to deer, and their attractiveness to bees and butterflies. They even make lovely cut and dried flowers ( A. christophii, A. caeruleum ).
Richter on Government Policy re: Invasive Plants
01/11/11 05:12 PM
Richter's and other nurseries which might wish to invest in slightly more exotic species or even preserve what bio-diversity we have left will feel the impact of these regulations. This link will take you to Conrad Richter's blog on the subject:
Invasive Plant Policy
Invasive Plant Policy
Native trees for 80th Planting
01/11/11 05:10 PM
from member Karen Sciuk
Some good examples:
Eastern White Pine - Ontario's Provincial tree
Red Maple
Sugar Maple
Cucumber Tree - on the Ontario endangered list, avoid frost pockets
Butternut - endangered list, good upland tree, contains juglens so plant to stand alone
Bitternut - good upland tree, needs dry soil
Shagbark Hickory - attractive bark, needs warm site
Shellbark Hickory - good upland tree
Kentucky Coffee Tree - endangered list, needs warm site
American Chestnut - endangered list, find blight resistant specimen
Shumard Oak - endangered list, may be too tender in Durham
These are great links for info on threatened or endangered species in Ontario:
Recommended List of Trees and Shrubs for University of Waterloo Plantings: uwaterloo.ca
Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources Species at Risk: mnr.gov.ca
Green Side Up in and Grow Wild, both in Omeemee, have some of these species:
Green Side Up Native Plant Nursery: greenservices.ca
Grow Wild native Plant Nursery: grow-wild.com
Some good examples:
Eastern White Pine - Ontario's Provincial tree
Red Maple
Sugar Maple
Cucumber Tree - on the Ontario endangered list, avoid frost pockets
Butternut - endangered list, good upland tree, contains juglens so plant to stand alone
Bitternut - good upland tree, needs dry soil
Shagbark Hickory - attractive bark, needs warm site
Shellbark Hickory - good upland tree
Kentucky Coffee Tree - endangered list, needs warm site
American Chestnut - endangered list, find blight resistant specimen
Shumard Oak - endangered list, may be too tender in Durham
These are great links for info on threatened or endangered species in Ontario:
Recommended List of Trees and Shrubs for University of Waterloo Plantings: uwaterloo.ca
Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources Species at Risk: mnr.gov.ca
Green Side Up in and Grow Wild, both in Omeemee, have some of these species:
Green Side Up Native Plant Nursery: greenservices.ca
Grow Wild native Plant Nursery: grow-wild.com
Communities in Bloom
18/10/11 10:34 PM
from Linda Wylie - Board Rep. for CIB
On October 18, the City of Oshawa hosted the 2011 Communities in Bloom/Garden of the Week Awards and Recognition Evening at the Jubilee Pavilion.
Several OGC members were honoured as GOTW recipients. They were Ted and Donna, Grace, Joan, Grace, Maggie (for her cul de sac), Marg, Anne and Terry. They each received an Award certificate, a photo of their garden and a photo of themselves with Mayor John Henry. The permanent PREMIER GARDEN sign is awarded in the year that recipients have won 4 out of the last 5 years. These gardens are retired from the annual program. Members with these signs are: Faye, Jack and Jackie, “Pat’s Garden” and added this year, Cardinal Court. Congratulations to everyone! Your contribution to the beautification of our city is appreciated.
As a partner in the city’s Communities in Blooms Program, OGC provides volunteers for the program. This year, forty-seven (47) of our members took part, which represents half of the total volunteers recruited. They scouted for gardens, installed signs, photographed the gardens, performed administrative duties and assisted with the Awards Evening. They each received a certificate and group photo. Thank you everyone for supporting our club by participating in this long-running civic program.
Resoures:
City of Oshawa Communities In Bloom - Garden of the Week Overview
Photo gallery of Garden of the Week winners
On October 18, the City of Oshawa hosted the 2011 Communities in Bloom/Garden of the Week Awards and Recognition Evening at the Jubilee Pavilion.
Several OGC members were honoured as GOTW recipients. They were Ted and Donna, Grace, Joan, Grace, Maggie (for her cul de sac), Marg, Anne and Terry. They each received an Award certificate, a photo of their garden and a photo of themselves with Mayor John Henry. The permanent PREMIER GARDEN sign is awarded in the year that recipients have won 4 out of the last 5 years. These gardens are retired from the annual program. Members with these signs are: Faye, Jack and Jackie, “Pat’s Garden” and added this year, Cardinal Court. Congratulations to everyone! Your contribution to the beautification of our city is appreciated.
As a partner in the city’s Communities in Blooms Program, OGC provides volunteers for the program. This year, forty-seven (47) of our members took part, which represents half of the total volunteers recruited. They scouted for gardens, installed signs, photographed the gardens, performed administrative duties and assisted with the Awards Evening. They each received a certificate and group photo. Thank you everyone for supporting our club by participating in this long-running civic program.
Resoures:
City of Oshawa Communities In Bloom - Garden of the Week Overview
Photo gallery of Garden of the Week winners
October Presentation by Charlie Dobbin - “The Big Chill”
17/10/11 10:01 PM
October 17, 2011
from member Karen Sciuk
Charlie Dobbin, host of 'The Garden Show', Zoomer Radio 740 AM, and former co-host of 'One Garden Two Looks', HGTV, entertained us with an informative checklist of the annually necessary tasks for preparing our gardens for the winter:
from member Karen Sciuk
- Over-seed/reseed grass in September
- Mow 1.5” short, and mulch or bag fall leaves, to discourage winter mould
- Top-dress lawns with 1” top soil, triple mix, or compost and a high P- root stimulating fertilizer as late as November
- Leave tender perennials but decompose annuals by chopping in-situ or removing to composter
- Cut back perennials that are prone to mushiness but leave seed heads for the birds and winter interest
- Lift tender bulbs, let air dry, wrap in peat/ newspaper and store in a dark, cool, frost-free area e.g. Cannas, Callas, Begonias, Dahlias
- Plant spring bulbs: Narcissus and Allium early, Tulips as late as November; out-smart the squirrels by planting deep, covering with planks once frozen, chicken-wire mats
- Wrap dark barked tree trunks and those with SW exposure to protect from winter sun-scald
- Give evergreens a deep late water to protect them from winter dehydration, every 7-10 days if the winter is mild
- Loosely wrap only those evergreens exposed to salt spray or extremely harsh winter winds
- Shade Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Pieris if not planted as an understory
- Wait now to prune trees and shrubs until dormant in November-December, or next February-March our late winter/ early spring
- Mulch root zones of trees, shrubs, perennials after a few hard frosts and the ground is frozen
- Disinfect pots and repair, repaint, sharpen tools
- Roses are drought tolerant once established, and love a hot S or W wall; they thrive on neglect!
- Prevent Black Spot, a soil-born fungus, by mulching to minimize splashing onto foliage
- In our zone bury the graft union of Hybrid Teas, Grandifloras, Floribundas at least 2” below soil surface at planting; this ensures that the grafted portion survives winter-kill; pile protective mulch only after ground is frozen
- Prune grafted varieties: 18” or to the “knees” after a hard fall frost, and to the “ankles” in the spring
- Prune shrub roses back to 2-3', either after a hard fall frost or late winter/ early spring
- Prune climbers and ramblers only to avoid winter wind damage
- Prune for good air circulation
Love the Fall
01/10/11 05:15 PM
by fellow gardener, Ted Brown
Folks, had to share a few photos. I love this time of year, the leaves are turning, there’s a buzz in the air, especially in the cool stillness of the evening hours. Unfortunately, the hummers are all about gone, the monarchs are merely wayward stragglers and the only real presence are the white butterflies and plenty of bees. 
The birds are a treat to watch right now, too. They’re really putting on a feed bag, eating up seeds if you’ve got the right plants and, I’m sure, we all do. So, hope you enjoy.
The birds are a treat to watch right now, too. They’re really putting on a feed bag, eating up seeds if you’ve got the right plants and, I’m sure, we all do. So, hope you enjoy.
September Presentation - Explorations in Flower and Garden Photography
12/09/11 10:06 PM
from member Karen Sciuk
Marilyn Cornwell speaker
Photograph what you love. Let the image tell the story “about” not just “of” your chosen subject matter. This was the main take-home message from Marilyn Cornwell (www.marilyncornwell.com) who followed her passion to become a full-time photographer. She gave us lots of tips for capturing artistic renderings of our favourite things and memorable places. Isolate your subject to make it clear. Simplify by avoiding hot/busy spots, or black holes. Choose backgrounds that are not distracting by walking around the subject matter to find the best view, the correct distance. Avoid the “bullseye”; placement off-centre or top or bottom works better. Look for contrast between reds and greens. Overcast skies give the best light. Do not be afraid to crop your final image to improve the placement or enhance the detail. Remember the rule of thirds and the two-thirds scale.
Marilyn also gave us a photographic tour of some marvellous world gardens. She made it clear that many of these places were designed by those very aware of perspective. Many of these gardens guide visitors to the best locations to take pictures with good composition. Amateurs cannot help but take marvellous panoramic photographs. Our own Parkwood Estate is one such garden - in particular the Italian Garden and the Formal Garden.
Marilyn Cornwell speaker
Photograph what you love. Let the image tell the story “about” not just “of” your chosen subject matter. This was the main take-home message from Marilyn Cornwell (www.marilyncornwell.com) who followed her passion to become a full-time photographer. She gave us lots of tips for capturing artistic renderings of our favourite things and memorable places. Isolate your subject to make it clear. Simplify by avoiding hot/busy spots, or black holes. Choose backgrounds that are not distracting by walking around the subject matter to find the best view, the correct distance. Avoid the “bullseye”; placement off-centre or top or bottom works better. Look for contrast between reds and greens. Overcast skies give the best light. Do not be afraid to crop your final image to improve the placement or enhance the detail. Remember the rule of thirds and the two-thirds scale.
Marilyn also gave us a photographic tour of some marvellous world gardens. She made it clear that many of these places were designed by those very aware of perspective. Many of these gardens guide visitors to the best locations to take pictures with good composition. Amateurs cannot help but take marvellous panoramic photographs. Our own Parkwood Estate is one such garden - in particular the Italian Garden and the Formal Garden.
Report on 2011 Sudbury OHA Convention
17/07/11 09:13 PM
July 15 - 17, 2011
from members Garry and Iris Lucas
On Thursday morning, July 14, Iris and I left for a leisurely 394 km. drive, in slow two-lane traffic, to the annual OHA convention in Sudbury organized by the fourteen societies of District 14. The Quality Inn was walking distance, four blocks to the convention centre. After registration and greeting the only planned activity was a night-time guerrilla gardening in downtown Sudbury.
Friday the official launch had the normal dignitaries and groups. The Mayor, Marianne Matichuk, mentioned the founding of the Sudbury society in 1911 and that they maintained one of the city's public spaces. Master Gardeners are celebrating 25 years. Speaker Dr. Stephen Monet has for ten years overseen the environmental planning in Sudbury from 1970 moonscape to forest. He explained the problems and the process with accompanying pictures greatersudbury.ca. Helen Sciutt of the Ministry of Agriculture discussed the need for garden diversity and for inclusion and accessibility for the physically and invisibly disabled.
We attended two seminars - Perennials in the Woodland and Photography in the Garden. After was a review of OHA programs: Trillium available electronically, OHA on Facebook, membership declining since 2004, with some exceptions notably Districts 10 &16 ( details from webmaster@gardenontario.org ), pollinator patches being done by two people each on roadsides caroldunk.com, guerilla garden pictures of 30+ participants, picket fence will be at Inco Hospice for terminal patients.
Saturday started with Bob Wildfong talking on Seeds of Diversity and lots of tips seeds.ca. We then attended two more seminars: Gardening on the Rocks and Attracting Backyard Birds. Spent any spare time enjoying the judged and youth competition displays. Saturday's banquet was a terrific prime rib. Sandy Rakestrow our Director and many of District 17 sat together. Speaker was Franco Mariotti on Hope in a Changing World. An enthusiastic biologist and staff scientist at Science North, he discussed the lessons from Sudbury and around the world since 1981. Ended with statement 'Each of us leaves a legacy each day'. The convention had 349 paid and 429 participants with volunteers.The new board was acclaimed and three resolutions of appreciation passed. Financial statement was reviewed and approved. Niagara Falls (St. Catherines) promoted the Aug.17-19, 2012 convention in Niagara Falls. Details on OHA website. Selling a new dark red rose '1812' from specialists Palantines. Concluded with an inspirational and entertaining speech by Gerry Loughheed. He is a Sudbury funeral director involved in promoting the funding of Sudbury's greening and other community activities. Summation was "get away from the weeds (negatives) in your life and the blind eyes allow industry to pollute".
Summary
We enjoyed our first annual OHA convention and would recommend and go again. The speakers were almost all excellent, and local, so we would not otherwise have heard them. The judging competition display was outstanding, especially the photography and design sections. Newly acclaimed executive appears enthusiastic and very competent.
Minor quibble was no informal gathering areas or system to meet others, especially from our district or the same hotel. Necessary as we were scattered around 4 or 5 hotels. Also there were bus trips, workshops, and other seminars available, but missed due to lack of time.
I have more detail on many of these items and there is info on the OHA website at: gardenontario.org.
from members Garry and Iris Lucas
On Thursday morning, July 14, Iris and I left for a leisurely 394 km. drive, in slow two-lane traffic, to the annual OHA convention in Sudbury organized by the fourteen societies of District 14. The Quality Inn was walking distance, four blocks to the convention centre. After registration and greeting the only planned activity was a night-time guerrilla gardening in downtown Sudbury.
Friday the official launch had the normal dignitaries and groups. The Mayor, Marianne Matichuk, mentioned the founding of the Sudbury society in 1911 and that they maintained one of the city's public spaces. Master Gardeners are celebrating 25 years. Speaker Dr. Stephen Monet has for ten years overseen the environmental planning in Sudbury from 1970 moonscape to forest. He explained the problems and the process with accompanying pictures greatersudbury.ca. Helen Sciutt of the Ministry of Agriculture discussed the need for garden diversity and for inclusion and accessibility for the physically and invisibly disabled.
We attended two seminars - Perennials in the Woodland and Photography in the Garden. After was a review of OHA programs: Trillium available electronically, OHA on Facebook, membership declining since 2004, with some exceptions notably Districts 10 &16 ( details from webmaster@gardenontario.org ), pollinator patches being done by two people each on roadsides caroldunk.com, guerilla garden pictures of 30+ participants, picket fence will be at Inco Hospice for terminal patients.
Saturday started with Bob Wildfong talking on Seeds of Diversity and lots of tips seeds.ca. We then attended two more seminars: Gardening on the Rocks and Attracting Backyard Birds. Spent any spare time enjoying the judged and youth competition displays. Saturday's banquet was a terrific prime rib. Sandy Rakestrow our Director and many of District 17 sat together. Speaker was Franco Mariotti on Hope in a Changing World. An enthusiastic biologist and staff scientist at Science North, he discussed the lessons from Sudbury and around the world since 1981. Ended with statement 'Each of us leaves a legacy each day'. The convention had 349 paid and 429 participants with volunteers.The new board was acclaimed and three resolutions of appreciation passed. Financial statement was reviewed and approved. Niagara Falls (St. Catherines) promoted the Aug.17-19, 2012 convention in Niagara Falls. Details on OHA website. Selling a new dark red rose '1812' from specialists Palantines. Concluded with an inspirational and entertaining speech by Gerry Loughheed. He is a Sudbury funeral director involved in promoting the funding of Sudbury's greening and other community activities. Summation was "get away from the weeds (negatives) in your life and the blind eyes allow industry to pollute".
Summary
We enjoyed our first annual OHA convention and would recommend and go again. The speakers were almost all excellent, and local, so we would not otherwise have heard them. The judging competition display was outstanding, especially the photography and design sections. Newly acclaimed executive appears enthusiastic and very competent.
Minor quibble was no informal gathering areas or system to meet others, especially from our district or the same hotel. Necessary as we were scattered around 4 or 5 hotels. Also there were bus trips, workshops, and other seminars available, but missed due to lack of time.
I have more detail on many of these items and there is info on the OHA website at: gardenontario.org.